Out on the fringes of Europe, nearly as far as you can go southwest and still be in Europe - without falling off into the Atlantic - Lisbon is often overlooked among those who presume to rank the best European cities. Yes, it lacks the iconic landmarks; its cuisine and wine are often considered second fiddle; and it just doesn't have that cool pizzazz factor, like a Paris, Rome or Berlin.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
Sure, the cuisine lacks the fanfare of Greek, Italian or French. Don't let PR mislead you, though. Portuguese cooking is delicious and Lisbon is the place to experience it. If you love sea food you're in for a great treat. Also, if you underestimate the wine, you'll be making a big mistake. Notwithstanding a tradition of Portuguese export wine not being so exceptional, the domestically available vintages are delightful. Even an inexpensive glass from the most out of the way, sawdust on the floor, wine bar offers perfect a accent to the proceedings. And the port! Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Top of the list, for me personally, is Alfama. It is the settlement legacy of the original fishing village that grew into Lisbon. That village sensibility still animates the place, with its charming, winding medieval streets. You always have stately Saint George's Castle looming behind you and constantly catch stunning views over the aquamarine sea. The housing stock is a bit on the rundown side, there's no denying that. On the other hand, more and more lovely renovated apartments are coming onto the market. The place to get these at the most modest prices is certainly Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Further north, but still conveniently located, is Principe Real. Not that long ago, this area was renown pretty much exclusively for being the gay and antiques neighborhood. No longer, though: it has rapidly transformed into a hip locale for young professionals. Be forewarned, the rental prices are on the higher side. For those who enjoy it, though, this is a tranquil location, full of lush gardens and charming mansions.
Again, the prices can be a bit high, but a great little out of the way spot is Santos. Located right along the riverside, it has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. Otherwise, it is a peaceful residential area with good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
Well, all I say to that is, oh happy days! I first came to Lisbon in 1975 and have been getting back whenever I could ever since. Of all the joys of this amazing town, one of the most pleasant is the remarkable dearth of tourists. Though, I'll concede, having the almost perfect climate ain't too shabby, either.
It is the most crime-free capital city in Europe. And that only further heightens its pleasure as one of the great walker's towns. And this is despite the winding, hilly streets, with their constantly, unexpected, stunning sea vistas around every next corner.
Sure, the cuisine lacks the fanfare of Greek, Italian or French. Don't let PR mislead you, though. Portuguese cooking is delicious and Lisbon is the place to experience it. If you love sea food you're in for a great treat. Also, if you underestimate the wine, you'll be making a big mistake. Notwithstanding a tradition of Portuguese export wine not being so exceptional, the domestically available vintages are delightful. Even an inexpensive glass from the most out of the way, sawdust on the floor, wine bar offers perfect a accent to the proceedings. And the port! Have you ever had white port? The coffee is fantastic, too. Lisbon should be famous for its cafes!
Lisbon provides all that classic European cultural stuff we've come to expect: it has cathedrals, museums, galleries, regal town squares and impressive architecture. And, if you get a hankering for the beach, which other great European city offers anything like the Costa da Caparica? Just a short trip south of town brings you to its 19 ruggedly beautiful, sandy beaches. There is easy access to them all, along a cute little railway that travels their length, dropping you off at which ever beach you'd like. (Try that in Paris.)
But, while Lisbon is certainly a wonderful place to visit, I especially urge it upon those who can manage longer stays. The professional sabbatical, the longer vacation when you're inspired to stay put and get to know the rhythms of a place, an ex-pat life, or if you want to write your great novel, when you need an inspirational respite, I'd say go to Lisbon.
Compared to the rest of Europe it is - as it has been since I started going - quite a bit less expensive. It is more expensive than it was back in the 70s, but in equivalent dollars not as much more as you might think.
Should you have the wisdom to take my advice and consider an extended sojourn in Lisbon it will be helpful to be familiar with the neighborhoods. You do after all want to choose the one that will provide you the best experience, in tune with your own personal needs and moods. Below, check out some of my favorite ones.
Top of the list, for me personally, is Alfama. It is the settlement legacy of the original fishing village that grew into Lisbon. That village sensibility still animates the place, with its charming, winding medieval streets. You always have stately Saint George's Castle looming behind you and constantly catch stunning views over the aquamarine sea. The housing stock is a bit on the rundown side, there's no denying that. On the other hand, more and more lovely renovated apartments are coming onto the market. The place to get these at the most modest prices is certainly Alfama.
If Alfama's largely family oriented atmosphere is too sedate for you, perhaps you'd be more into the party-hardy lifestyle of the bohemian Bairro Alto. Brimming with characters with character, wonderful restaurants, divine wine bars, and hopping dance clubs, Bairro Alto is the go-to spot for all manner of Lisbon night life. It's an exciting area to be and to live. It certainly, though, isn't for everyone. Say, for instance, you're one of those people who actually can't sleep through thumping dance music or throngs of merrymakers. Still, if you enjoy the vibe, a good compromise might be to look for something in the Bica and Santa Catarina neighborhoods. They're still real close, have the feel of Bairro Alto, but are considerably quieter at night. They're located just down the hill a ways.
Further north, but still conveniently located, is Principe Real. Not that long ago, this area was renown pretty much exclusively for being the gay and antiques neighborhood. No longer, though: it has rapidly transformed into a hip locale for young professionals. Be forewarned, the rental prices are on the higher side. For those who enjoy it, though, this is a tranquil location, full of lush gardens and charming mansions.
Again, the prices can be a bit high, but a great little out of the way spot is Santos. Located right along the riverside, it has become a bit of a design hub in Lisbon. Otherwise, it is a peaceful residential area with good quality housing.
So there you have some quiet choices and some happening ones. You have to decide which better suits you. Whatever your preference, though, Lisbon has it. And I can't urge you enough, if you have the chance, don't miss out on what is still one of the most affordable and beautiful gems among the best European cities.
About the Author:
For all the best news and hottest tips on the urban must-see list of Europe, we've got the dope at the Best European Cities site. Check out Mitchell Jones insightful article on the top cities to visit in Eastern Europe .
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